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INTRODUCTION
Varanasi is a city in the state of Uttar Pradesh. Situated on the banks of the River Ganga, it is a sacred city that sits at the centre of Hindu, Buddhist, and Jain thought.
Varanasi is a place of learning, a centre for literature and the arts- it is believed to be one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. Right through its existence, Varanasi has flourished, all whilst retaining its unique identity.
HISTORY
Varanasi is often described as one of the oldest continuously inhabited cities in the world. It’s unique geographical location has ensured that it is a thriving centre for both trade and learning. Rulers have come and gone, while Varanasi has endured through the ravages of time.
Click below to read more on the long history of this city.
CITY TALES
Varanasi is the city of Lord Shiva, and the place where He and the Goddess Parvati founded the universe. It is believed to be the site where Lord Rama did penance, after his victory over the demon-king Ravana, and may also have been a battlefield in the Mahabharata, where the God Krishna set fire to an imposter Krishna.
Take a closer look at the map- you will see that Varanasi is shaped like a crescent moon. This is a tribute to her Creator, Lord Shiva, and the crescent moon that adorns His hair.
KEY
Click on the pins to navigate through the city
Built Heritage
Streets and Bazaars
Living Traditions
Natural Heritage
People/Personalities/Institutions
×Durga Temple
The Varanasi skyline is dotted with the spires, or shikharas of its many temples.
What is the story of this bright red temple? Click to find out.
×Alamgir Masjid
Varanasi has always attracted visitors. Some of them have left their mark on the city. The Great Mosque is among those marks, left here by a medieval ruler.
×Man Mandir Palace
Varanasi’s reputation, and its location by the holiest of rivers, led many royal families to build palaces and residences here.
×Ramnagar Fort
On the opposite bank of the river Ganga, is a mighty fort.
×Kashi Vishwanath Temple
This eighteenth-century temple is dedicated to Vishwanath- the principal deity of the city of Varanasi.
Is that real gold on the temple’s shikharas? Let’s find out!
×Sarnath
Just outside of Varanasi is a place that gave us both a new religious philosophy, and a symbol that now defines the Republic of India.
×Nepalese Temple
Scriptures proclaim that Kashi - otherwise known as Varanasi - is a representation of the entire universe. This universal city has a ‘twin’, a city that lies on the banks of the river Bhagirathi, one that is represented in Varanasi by an unusual structure.
×Assi Ghat
This is the southernmost ghat of Varanasi.
What can you expect to find here? Read on to find out!
×Manikarnika Ghat
The Manikarnika Ghat is one of the most important ghats of Varanasi.
×Ratneswar Mahadev Temple
This peculiar temple is unlike any other in Varanasi.
×Banaras Gharana of Music
This neighbourhood in Varanasi has nurtured a musical tradition that is unique to Varanasi.
×Kathak - Banaras Gharana
Alongside Jaipur and Lucknow, Varanasi has its own distinctive school of Kathak.
What makes the Varanasi or Banaras school of this dance form different from the others?
×Ganga Aarti at Varanasi
The Dashashwamedha Ghat is one of the most famous, and certainly the most vibrant, ghats in Varanasi. Said to be named after an event from the Ramayana, this ghat has also been an important stop for trade and export.
×Banarasi Silk
Varanasi is home to a centuries-old textile tradition.
A symbol of this cosmopolitan city, this industry creates a quintessentially Indian of clothing, incorporated with Persian motifs that have travelled here via the Mughal Court, and intricate brocade, added by the families of weavers who migrated from Gujarat to establish this craft practice.
×Brass Work
The Gangetic plain upon which Varanasi is settled is rich in copper. This has given rise to a specialised metalwork industry in the area.
×Ramnavami Festival
Varanasi celebrates the festival of Ram Navami with much fervour and joy.
What can you look forward to if you visit Varanasi during this time?
×Ustad Bismillah Khan
The neighbourhood of Beniya Bagh was home to an Indian musical maestro. Among other things, this person played the shehnai at India’s first ever Independence Day in 1947.
×Tulsidas
The last four chapters of an epic poem were completed in Varanasi by this sixteenth-century poet-saint.
×Sant Kabir
This unassuming chauraha- a junction where four roads meet is known as the Kabir Chaura.
×The Doms of Varanasi
The ghats of Varanasi are supervised by a community of people who trace their origin to a legend involving Shiva and Parvati.
×Banaras Hindu University
Varanasi is home to the world-renowned Banaras Hindu University (BHU).
But unlike other universities, the BHU campus has an unusual facility.
×Thatteri Bazaar
While the name of this market might contain a Hindi word that alludes to metalwork, the people of Varanasi visit it for an entirely different reason.
×Panchkoshi Road
Varanasi has attracted pilgrims - both Hindu and Buddhist - for centuries.
Click here to see how some of them might have travelled to Varanasi.
×Ganga at Varanasi
The city of Varanasi owes its cultural identity, its centuries of prosperity, and even the fertility of its soil to a single river that even today continues to attract millions of visitors to it.
Ganga at Varanasi
Believed to be flowing from Lord Shiva’s hair locks, Ganga, is the holiest river in India. River Ganga is not only religiously and historically important but is also associated with many mythological tales of the Hindus.
Originating high in the Himalayas, at Varanasi, the Ganga meets her tributaries, Varuna and Assi. The flow of this mighty river is usually in the southern direction but at some places in Varanasi, she flows northwards. Many believe that Ganga flows back to see this beautiful city one last time, before she bids goodbye.
Thatteri Bazaar
Kachori and sabzi is the breakfast staple in Varanasi and it is such a prized delicacy in this city that an entire lane in Thatteri Bazaar is devoted to it. It is called the kachori gali.
Particularly famous here is the Ram Bhandar which was started in 1888 by the current owner’s grandfather as a sweet shop. Now the brothers have two shops, one for savoury dishes and one for sweets
Watch:A Food Tour of Varanasi Panchkosi Road
The name Panchkosi is composed of: ‘panch’ or ‘paanch’ meaning five, and ‘kos’ which is an Indian unit of distance. This road roughly forms a semicircle, encircling the sacred areas of the city from the Vishwanath Temple at a radius of five kos.
Various literary sources describe the use of this road as a pilgrimage path. One of the very special times for this pilgrimage, lasting five days, was when ‘malmas’ occured. This is an extra month which has to be intercalated about every third year to keep the Hindu calendar correct.
Ustad Bismillah Khan
The face of Indian classical music, Ustad Bismillah Khan, is known to have popularied shehani across Indian borders. Though born in Bihar, the shehnai maestro spent most of his life at his house in Varanasi. He was trained by his uncle, Ustad Ali Baksh, who used to play the instrument at the Kashi Vishwanath Temple. He was also one of the earliest classical musicians to receive the highest civilian award, the Bharat Ratna. Ustad Bismillah Khan’s love for the city of Varanasi was immense and the melody of his shehnai continues to linger amidst the city’s lanes.
Listen: A Shehnai Recital
Listen: The Ustad describes Varanasi
Tulsidas
One of the greatest Indian poets of the 16th century, Tulsidas, sat at the Ghats of Varanasi to write one of his remarkable works, the Ramcharitmanas. The Tulsi Ghat was thus named after this legend. It is said that he wrote the last four episodes of this poem in Varanasi, whereas the rest were written in Ayodhya and Chitrakoot. Tulsidas is also credited for writing the Hanuman Chalisa. Legends say that Hanuman appeared in front of Tulsidas in Varanasi and at that spot, Tulsidas laid the foundation of the Sankat Mochan Hanuman Temple.
Sant Kabir
Sant Kabir, the famous mystic poet who is known for his dohe (couplets) was born in Varanasi. According to a popular legend, Kabir was adopted by a muslim couple after he was found floating in a lotus pond in Lehartara. Many believe that Sant Kabir grew up in the lanes of Kabir Chaura, a locality in Varanasi later named after the mystic. In his memory, the Kabir math was established, where his teachings and philosophy continue to inspire many. Even today, this math is a major centre of the Kabir panthis - his followers.
The Doms of Varanasi
The burning ghats of Varanasi are supervised by the Doms- a community of men whose job it is to build and supervise the funeral pyres that are lit on the city's two cremation ghats. The doms live a double life- while they are victims of prejudice and stigma owing to their vocation, they are also considered indispensable, and many people's pathway to liberation, because it is their job to provide the sacred fire that lights the funeral pyre.
Banaras Hindu University
One of the most revered institutions of India, the Banaras Hindu University (BHU) was founded by Pandit Madan Mohan Malaviya with the assistance of Annie Besant in the year 1916. BHU is immersed in history. It is not only a centre for learning but a reflection of India’s diverse culture with the Bharat Kala Museum and the Vishwanath Temple that stand tall within the campus premises. Interestingly, it is the only university in India to have an airstrip within the campus which was created to train pilots during the Second World War.
Banaras Gharana of Music
With the constant invoking of Gods and Goddesses using bhajans and mantras in the temples of Varanasi, the sense of rhythm was not new to this sacred city. Hence, the city contributed to the field of Indian classical music with its own distinct school, the Banaras gharana. There are a number of legendary instrumentalists and singers from the Banaras gharana who have given this style a charm of its own.
Interestingly, Varanasi has a ‘mohallah of musicians’, near Kabir Chaura, which is home to many popular artists and musicians.
A name that is synonymous with this gharana of music is the most popular singer, Girija Devi.
One of the six schools of tabla, the Banaras gharana, was created by Pandit Ram Sahai whose family continues this legacy even today. The famous tabla artist, Pandit Sharda Sahai belongs to this family of legends.
Listen: Girija Devi’s melodious voice
Listen: Banaras Gharana tabla by Pandit Sharda Sahai
Kathak - Banaras Gharana
Varanasi, the centre of India’s art and culture has also contributed to the field of performing arts. Kathak, a renowned Indian classical dance form of northern India has distinct schools or gharanas, depending on their places of origin. One such prominent school is the Banaras Gharana. It was developed by the most popular dancer of the time, Janaki Prasad. With marked difference in its footwork, chakkars and bols, the Banaras gharana of Kathak stands out from the other two, Lucknow and Jaipur.
One of the leading exponents of the dance form, Sitara Devi popularly known as the ‘Kathak Queen’, belongs to the Banaras Gharana of Kathak.
Interestingly, Varanasi has a ‘mohallah of musicians’, Rampura, which is home to many popular artists and musicians.
A name that is synonymous with this gharana of music is the most popular singer, Girija Devi.
One of the six schools of tabla, the Banaras gharana, was created by Pandit Ram Sahai whose family continues this legacy even today. The famous tabla artist, Pandit Sharda Sahai belongs to this family of legends.
GANGA AARTI AT VARANASI
One of the main attractions of Varanasi is the daily Ganga Aarti that takes place in the evenings at the Dashashwamedh Ghat. This ritual of offering prayers to the River Ganga is a visual treat that the sacred city is famous for. Priests, in silk dhotis with lighted lamps in their hands, face the holy river and offer her prayers. Meanwhile, the devotees and tourists eager to witness the aarti, occupy the steps of the ghat and the boats that are parked facing the priests. With the sound of the bells, conch shells, cymbals, the mantras and the bhajans, this ritual invokes a sense of devotion in one and all.
Banarasi Silk
One of Varanasi’s thriving industries is its textile industry. Varanasi has been one of the major weaving centres of India since centuries. Known for its beautiful brocade with intricate designs, motifs and zari work, Banarasi silk is one of a kind. Gold and silver brocades are made of thin gold and silver strips that are woven into silk fabric. Some of the traditional weaving centres in Varanasi are Alaipura and Madanpura that continue to contribute to the rich culture of the region.
Brass Work
Varanasi is popular for its handicrafts, especially its brass work. With the region rich in copper, brass (an alloy of copper and zinc) is easy to produce. A number of brass utensils, lamps, bells are used for daily purposes in temples. One of the most popular brass s in Varanasi is the lota, used for pujas and other rituals or even to collect the holy water of the Ganga. Often, these ritualistic brass s are intricately decorated with mythological figures and floral designs. The city is known for its repousse technique, in which the metal is pushed from the reverse side to achieve the desired designs and decorations on the front.
Ramnavami Festival
The Ramnagar fort has been the site of the performance of the Ram Lila for over 230 years. Interestingly, this Ramlila performance uses no artificial lighting or sounds. The fort is therefore a must visit in the months of Dussehra and Diwali when it is glowing with lights from the performances of the Ramayana.
In the olden days, on the tenth day of the Ram Navami festival, the Maharaja would take out a lively procession from here to witness the enactment of Bharat Milap, an episode from the Ramayana. The current Maharaja continues the tradition of attending the famous Ram Lila festival.
Durga Temple
The Durga Temple dedicated to Goddess Durga was constructed in the 18th century by Rani Bhabani of Natore, an ardent devotee of the Goddess. It is decorated with multiple shikharas and painted in red ochre.
The temple has a kund (pond) which was earlier connected to the holy Ganga. Pilgrims would use it for bathing to attain blessings.
According to a popular legend, the idol of Durga appeared in the temple on its own.
Today, the Durga temple is a prime spot for the Navratri festival. However, one must be careful while visiting as there are many monkeys in the temple premise
Alamgir Masjid
The Great Mosque, also called the Alamgir Masjid was built by the Mughal emperor Aurangzeb. It is located above the steep steps rising from the Panchganga Ghat.
One gets a majestic view of the city of Varanasi from the top of its minarets which dominate the city. Back in the day, two even taller and more slender minarets stood alongside the three domes of the mosque.
Man Mandir Palace
The Man Mandir Palace was erected by Raja Man Singh of Amber in around 1600 AD next to the Dashashwamedh Ghat.
An observatory was built at this site in 1693 by the great astronomer, Raja Jai Singh, a descendant of Man Singh. He was employed by the Mughal emperor, Muhammad Shah to correct the erroneous calendar. Some popular instruments in the observatory consist of the Samrat Yantra, the Chakra Yantra and the Digansha Yantra.
Ramnagar Fort
Located opposite the Tulsi Ghat, this sandstone structure was built in the Mughal style of architecture by Kashi Naresh Raja Balwant Singh in 1750. The current Maharaja of Banaras continues to live in this palace.
The palace consists of two courts for its audiences, a main hall that was once decked with crystal chandeliers, a room covered with paintings from Kalidasa’s Shakuntala, a temple dedicated to Vedvyas, and the Maharaja’s garden. Oil paintings of the various Rajas of Banares are placed on the walls in the reception room. There is a carved balcony with a marble throne from which one gets a majestic view of the city.
The museum in the palace has objects such as vintage American cars, jewelled sedan chairs, ivory works, religious manuscripts, weapons and an astrological clock.
Kashi Vishwanath Temple
Popularly known as the Golden Temple of Varanasi, the Kashi Vishwanath temple is one of the twelve jyotirlinga temples of Hinduism. The temple gets its name (Golden Temple) from the gold plating on its dome and shikharas. It is said that a single darshan of this Jyotirlinga is considered more auspicious than the darshan of the remaining eleven.
It is dedicated to Lord Vishwanath, one of the incarnations of Lord Shiva and the patron deity of Varanasi.
The present structure was built in 1780 by Rani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. The 800 kg gold plating on the dome and tower was supplied by Maharaja Ranjit Singh of Lahore.
There is a small well in the temple, called the Gyanvapi or the wisdom well. Drinking its water is supposed to give spiritual merit.
Sarnath
10 km away from Varanasi lies Sarnath, the place where Buddha gave his first sermon. At Sarnath, he also started his first Buddhist Sangha, the order of monks, that would go on to preach his message.
Kings also left their mark on Sarnath. The site has many memorials which were built by the Mauryan Emperor Ashoka when he embraced Buddhism.
These include the Dhamek Stupa erected at the spot where Buddha gave his first sermon of Dharma.
The most famous structure here is the Lion Capital of Ashoka which Hiuen Tsang described as “smooth as jade and shining as mirror”. This capital is now housed in the Sarnath Museum.
Nepalese Temple
A replica of the Pashupatinath Temple in Kathmandu, the Nepalese temple was built by the King of Nepal, Rana Bahadur Shah when he was exiled to Varanasi in the 19th century. After he died, his son completed the construction of the temple. Till date, the temple is maintained by the government of Nepal.
The structure of the temple is unique. As opposed to all the other Shiva temples in Varanasi, which are carved from stone, the Nepalese temple is made entirely of wood. The wood was brought from Nepal itself. The structure consists of a two-storey roof, a gilded top as well as beautiful wooden statues.
Assi Ghat
This is the place where the Assi River empties itself into the Ganga. It is the end point of Varanasi. No more ghats or banks or temples are located beyond this point.
Assi ghat is one of the ‘Panchtirath,’ or the five especially sacred spots in the holy river Ganga. These five spots must be visited and bathed in, on the same day, to secure merit. Visited in a particular order, the panchtirth includes:—1. Assi, 2. Dashashwamedh, 3. Barna-sangam, then back to 4. Panchganga, and 5. Manikarnika.
It is particularly frequented by pilgrims on the solar and lunar eclipse, the Makar Sankranti festival and the Probodhoni Ekadashi.
Ratneswar Mahadev Temple
On the border of the Manikarnika Ghat is an interesting structure, India’s very own leaning temple. Also known as the Kashi Karvat, karvat indicating tilt, the Ratneshwar Mahadev temple leans as much as 9 degrees.
Legend says that the temple was built by a servant of Raja Man Singh for his mother, Ratna Bai. However, when the man boasted that by building the temple, he had paid the debt to his mother, the temple started tilting. This gave the message that the debt to one’s mother can never be paid.
Other stories say that Queen Baija Bai of Gwalior began erecting a mansion and a ghat at this place. However, the heavy weight of the stone-work caused the foundations to sink and the whole structure toppled over.
Interestingly, portions of the temple are also submerged in the river. The sanctorum of the structure stays submerged for most part of the year. During the months of the rain, the water levels rise upto the top of the temple.
Maninkarnika Ghat
The Manikarnika Ghat is decked with two temples, one in the north and one in the south, each built by Rani Ahilyabai Holkar of Indore. The Manikarnika Kund nearby is also used as a bathing spot by pilgrims. It has system/files/HistoricCities of gods and goddesses placed in the niches of its stairs.
The Charan Paduka, a marble slab set into the ground and carved with the figures of two footprints on which mystic signs are engraved, is another prime spot for worship.
Today the Manikarnika Ghat is used for cremation of dead bodies. One can also find a few sati stones here which commemorate the wives who committed sati at this ghat.
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